Sleep failures from H3LL  W10 only !         

First off sleep modes are all edicts from the USA government called ENERGY STAR (or by other silly names) these edits force OEM PC makers to have this turned fully on by DEFAULT.
Do not lay blame on MS or your OEM PC makers,  it is an EDICT. Blame your Government for this pain. ( if blame is your game?) It is not mine, I just fix it.
Or hibernate or hybrid modes same failures common. (most times BAD Software PnP CHIP DRIVERS IN YOUR PC)
We learn now that BIOS has a newer features called, Deep Sleep,S4 and S5, go into BIOS and turn it off or driver love to fail even new driver.

The main example will be USB port issues or the computers screen going dead   or PC keyboard is dead and will not end sleep mode.
( The USB 10 ports and 10,000 devices possible, sure endless problems) and the Captain Obvious.
A new PC simple wakes up if the PC users , moves a mouse or hits any keyboard key, if not most times the Driver for those ports are missing or wrong.
There are many chips to fail for sleep mode, they are, CPU, GPU, USB ports, LAN, the CHIPSET (say ICH10 chip driver wrong) HDD or SSD sleep stuck and more.
The dead USB  port tops my list of key point of failure,. (causing keyboard to be dead)

There are 3 other ways to end stuck in sleep, hold the power button for 4 to 5 seconds and sleep ends or the long hard power reset way (PC can lock up 3 ways, not just sleep)

The problem is many devices go dead at the moment the silly PC decides rightly or wrongly to force sleep mode (or worse hibernate mode)  on any device.
There are 2 classes of problem here, you want sleep modes to work and are dead or the sleep mode gets stuck in sleep mode and will not recover.

I will list the cures in proper order. (worst to easy) Lets say a USB port goes dead, for ANYTHING connected there.  If only monitor sleep issues see this.
  1. The driver for the device that  fails is missing , wrong one or corrupted,  so get the driver that matches your PCs failing device, and the USB port too. (ask your OEM maker of  PC and device maker for current drivers)
  2. Try all USB ports yet?  Most desktops have 6 to 10 USB ports, try them all is wise.  (most ports are in pairs, so skip them say jump from 1 to 3rd port, and many PCs have USB2 and 3 version ports, and  2 drivers. (try them all)
  3. If the device/port has no correct support driver for  W10-64bit then it is doomed, so buy a new device, if the USB port actually fails buy a new USB3.1 card and put it in your PC. ( the new card must have a W10 driver)
  4. Once the port runs in windows, properly we can then  configure it to run full time and not good dead, as the Energy Star junk wants to do. (do not expect Windows to work if the port or device driver is WRONG.
  5. Last of all is using 3.5" external HDD and expecting the USB port to run a 2 -3 amp motor inside it, It will NOT WORK that Drive needs an external power pack to run and not wreck the internal heads.
  6. Do not expect a wireless (BT-bluetooth) keyboard mouse to work if either or both the batteries in them are dead or drivers for it are bad. (wrong  one, missing or corrputed drives) (try using  real USB keyboard and mouse)
Cures that are simple and can work if and only if your drivers work fully and  correctly and matches Windows 10  -64bit.
Lets say your USB externally HDD drive keeps going dead. (or fails to show up in Explorer randomly)

Laptops only MS says.   Enable the Windows Mobility , in the windows options of control panel + proprams, turn on off Windows features.

Desktops,  in the run box (just push windows key) search type "presentationsettings.exe" (with no quotes) and see this and check the box below. bingo. cured. (if drivers are not dead)
This may only work in W10 Pro and above, not home versions.
Do this as test or leave it like that. or do the below.

What if you want to flip all the bits your self in control panel, under power settings advanced, custom profile well do so.
(if drivers are not bad/corrupted or wrong for your PC)
Note not letting HDD spin down and go dead, in first section below. Constant spin downs shortens its life span.

In the control panel , Power OPTIONS, you can create power plan like this. Nosleep1

Next is screen settings. (lock, sleep, screen saver, etc) right click desktop screen and chose display settings then click power and sleep and then set both to never.

Next in control panel,  click power settings and then click,  power button settings, note lock is off,  as locks can fail, easy, or a lost password.

If you do like lock screen time out fatures the do this.

Right click desktop pick personalize settings , click lock screen. do as left photo shows.

last is this (seen on Dells) The LED breathing (means dim/bright repeat) tells you stuck on sleep mode.

Below see my external 2TB 3.5" HDD, that uses huge power, (about 24watts just to start the motor up, unlike 200mA for some SSD) it runs flawlessly here for over 3 years and have 3 drives, even bigger.
The nasty trick here, is MS, silly right click fails on the Black hole F: below in that Policies is missing the cure is right click DISK 5 (or what yours  is) and click PROPERTIES, then click tab Polices. and USE QUICK.!
As you can see I long ago set the drive to letter F using the diskmanager, the PC knows I did this and knows the HDD credentials, maker, model and other key facts and always comes back as F:

I have plugged in my DISK_5: , 100's of times and always  lands on F: every single time.
(each time I do is to backup data here and then later to my backup servers.)  
If you fail to do this and the PC dies or loses power or you pull the USB cable , the Drive will go corrupted. (all removable devices (disk like of any kind)  must be set like this or bad things will happen)
Imagine in your mind, painting a ceiling and someonce kicks the ladder down while you paint. ( check the box marked quick)
This is called Write Cache buffer auto-purging.  (it prevents delays to pending writes to the media)
Once checked Quick above, Windows completes all write operations  HDD 100% complete (HDD are slow). This means data is 100% secure and correct on the HDD now.

Now the captain obvious things to check. (base line simple stuff) Beside the above SLEEP Malarkey.
  1. And last what if the external drive keeps failing ?  well you need to set 2 things up there.
  2. Buffer flush Buffer cache for external HDD needs to be set to on.
  3. Make sure MS Bitlocker™ is turned off for the external drive. (or just avoid bitlocker if you are  not CIA/NSA/DOD ,etc, yeah.)
  4. Make sure Disk Manager the drive has and assigned drive letter.( to go there most easy just PRESS the  windows key and type  DISKMGMT.MSC)
  5. If device manager (in CP) shows the USB port is sick why in the world expect things connected there to work? Get and load the correct driver.
  6. Lean and know there are 2 drivers for one USB port, the port driver must be present and good, and the driver for the USB device plugged in to said port, in that order.
  7. If device manager shows the actual USB device (not port above) is sick, missing or marked as bad why expect it to work.? IT CAN NOT !  Find the driver that makes this device work of the 10,000 made.
  8. As you can see PnP fails.  if the device fails, and the device is not bad, then the Microsoft plug and play driver, is bad, missing or corrupted at MS.  The cure is only one place the OEM maker of said device.
  9. Old devices in fact 1000s are not supported in window 10 now, sorry that is a fact of life, if the OEM is gone , dead,  or like Elvis left the building long ago. (try not to expect working drivers now.)
  10. My huge  powerful USB external HDD all fail lacking the power pack working and connected to IT. (these USB devices are the most hard to get working and this keyboard )
  11. Someone turned off a set of USB ports in BIOS, making it 100% dead, and is NOT.
This is a PC with wrong drivers max. my guess SLAMMED !

version 1.  10-1-2019