Monitors , Displays and Screens , problems (solving them)   

See how , Sleep mode or hibernate mode or screen savers can fool you, see why and the cure , here.

Screens have vast failure  modes,  like dead, dim, turned yellow, blinks, intermittant or has funny lines on the LCD.
There are many screen types,  used for ages,  CRT (cathode ray tubes; Legacy),  Desktop LCD then, LED , and LCDs inside Laptops (notebooks) both CCFL or LED back lighted.
Cold Cathode Florescent Lamp tube CCFL back lamps love to fail. (most of them today are all dead now)
Index: (failures)
Desktop LCD
Laptop screens
2008 Nvidia chip failures
Solder balls from Hell.
The CCFL Flashlight test.
Laptop  inverter failures
Desktop Monitor Inverter failures
Stand alone monitor test NO PC connected.
Boot messages gone?
LED upgraded conversions.
I got lines on my screen.
List of CCFL screens. HP.
OSD views on monitors

DISPLAY's & Monitors & Screens 101: (do not read this history / facts jump to fixing it now)
DESKTOP: (only)
Skipping past Cathode ray tubes all displays now are LCD flat screens (most are, I am skipping OELD and Plasma screens)
The Desktop external monitor powers on and will always show a logo "HP" ,  or some makers logo then "Energy Star (may show up) then shows errors.
  • "NO SYNC" errors.  means the horz/vertical sync lines in the cable are dead. (PC issues)
  • "NO signal" means  1or both Video lines in cable are dead. (PC issues)
  • "No connection" errors means all lines are dead, in the cable. (PC video dead)
  • OUT OF RANGE (means you connected  new PC to a relic monitor, and the resolution is set to and illegal RANGE. (TRY 800X600 resolution and work up from there or read the screens spec)
  • Screen OSD locked, push the menu button for 10 seconds, now it unlocks.
  • The Screen monitor, goes to sleep, well go to its OSD menu and turn OFF POWERSAFER mode or timer.
You turn on the monitor and hen promptly goes black?  (you can repeat this over and over (power on, see logo, see Signal then it goes black screen)
This will be normal actions with a dead PC, but in all cases the monitor will show, no signal if the PC is fully on first, and the monitor last. (the monitor tells you, and error, NO SIGNAL,etc)
The OSD menu  button goes dead with NO SYNC. and is normal  (this may be to protect the screen for static burn in  damage if the OSD was left glowing endlessly, with a dead PC and the below menu's glowing for ever..)
(the On Screen Display) OSD,  best is to power on the PC first, then the monitor for best displayed infomation. 
What happens as the Monitor is turned on that way is:
The monitor shows a HP logo first, a graphic (or others if is another brand, like the great monitors made by Viewsonic that I use)
Normally the  monitor will show the PC data presentations of the booting OS or will show an  error. ( a monitor error, or if ok, the maybe the OS boot screen errors)
If the PC is dead, (means no video or sync) the monitor tells you this fact, clear as day, see below. (or only tells you for 2 -3 seconds only) << repeat the power on of the monitor to see errors again.
The menu key on the monitor always works if the PC is working right, but the menu key can be dead, (or runs only for 1 second)
My HP LE2000x monitor (LED) will not show the OSD on demand if the PC is dead.  (some models it will  for only short time, with a PC dead)
If I push the LE2000x menu key it shows a white box GOING TO SLEEP (this is because the 2 sync lines are dead and that is one offical way to command sleep mode)
The other buttons if pushed over and over, you will get a Monitor status screen that says it is scanning ports VGA/DVI, and it shows they are dead.  and are.
As you can see best is to test the monitor on a known working PC, first.
Also test it with the VGA/DVI cable pulled (or HDMI if that is you setup) Learn how the monitor works (yours) with a dead PC. It will show at least, NO SIGNAL (or like errors)

SPEEP issues problems and facts:
On old monitors the monitor had its own SLEEP brain and timer, (tune it off in the OSD) This feature has no usage now on any modern PC, ever.! Kill it dead inside the monitor now.
Long ago the  VESA standards added PC commanded sleep modes. (and is related to PnP, plug and play, the OS must know what display is there or it can not set the correct resolution mode.
If VGA vertical or Horizontal sync pins go dead, the monitor will go to sleep or deep power down power saver mode. (dead screens) pin 13 or 14 pins dead, cable bad or these (either) line, the montor goes off line.
Dead Sync pins is PC side, video GPU chip problems, even lost power to the chip, or PSU problems, etc.

The history of Monitors is simple, 1987(PS/2)  CRT's then LCD +CCFL then LCD +LED and last OLED panels), 
Time lines:
LCD+LED , started on the wide screens year 2010. (it took industry 7 years to start using CREE bright white, LEDs,  Cost factors were it)
CRTs ended when LCD hit the shelfs , in year 2003.( they outsold CRT then, but the price was still too high)
Th CCLF' short life tubes ending about year 2010.  So there are 7 years of these lame old CCLF monitors(and laptops) still being used, that all turn yellow then die.

Links to read as appropriate to your technology: (years )

Top fails: (first are old screens, with CCLF)
If the lamp is dead, in most cases the owner throws the monitor away due to a new display is a fraction of any possible repair bill.... (econ101) proof below.
 Walmart has  nice $50 display for sale, why not upgrade to LED display now.?
If the flashlight test fails on the monitor , and no power on logo seen,   , nor errors seens on monitor screen or text ever,  turned on , then the monitor is bad.
If the monitor tests ok ,but the PC is bad see here, Black screens of death.

Monitors stand alone tests, with no  PC connected, no VGA, no DVI no HTML cables attached, example HP LE2002x .
You power on the monitor and it  shows, this or the monitor is dead.  The red words below show scanning port that shows no signal. All 100 % normal.

Finding the problem and fix it :  If Laptop jump to LT now.
Top failure modes:  (the fast quick tests are here)  this section here is for total screen death , no words , no text no logo's no errors are on the screen ever.
If the monitor is  ok shows logos or words  but the PC is dead (you saw "no signal errors" for 3 seconded turned on) then  See black screens here.

Desktop: DT monitors   (when I say VGA port or cable , it means  that or DVI or HDMI what ever you have connected for video to this monitor)
Steps to take for diagnosis:
  1. Plug the monitors power pack in, and turn the monitor , the HP  (or you makers) LOGO must show up and  no signal waring for about 3 seconds or the monitor is bad. (jump to #4 below if this fails)
  2. Connect the monitor under test to a known working PC, turn on the monitor then the PC, the OSD screen can be commanded on with the front panel Monitor menu key.
  3. The display LCD-CCFL is dead weak, or its PS_inverter and do the flashlight check below.
  4. You Error no signal The VGA cable  can be bad, replace it or try a spare barrowed?   (you get this error even with monitor tried on other PCs)
  5. The monitor may also show ("im in sleep mode or power saver mode" in most cause this is the PC messing up. or the rare case of old 2002? monitors  , the super secret internal timer.
  6. The monitor is always best tested on a known working PC of any kind with a VGA jack (15pins) Dshell connector on its rear,  that many have, or if DVI cable /port monitor the same.
A good monitor will show the makers logo and no signal error each time the monitor is turned on, PC turned off.   If the monitor is dead look here for REFURB  monitors.
The HP logo and errors seen here, (no sig) are from the Desktop monitors internal Brain.  (not the PC)
Please note that monitors have there own brain (see MCU below? yes a brain) this brain will the status of the main video ports.
RGB = red green blue video, H = horiz. sync, V= Vertical Sync.. this old dog uses CCLF lamps.

Laptop  "LT", only screens.  ( lots more to fail here, due to more parts in play and shared power !)   This is not a monitor it's only a SCREEN now.
The laptop has no OSD brain (like desktop monitors above have but only the OS BRAIN CPU (Intel i7), can control the GPU chip and screen now.)
The i7 processor and BIOS runs the GPU and all BIOS screens work , even with no OS or even any HDD at all installed.
The laptop we first check that  we can get to the BIOS pages (on mine it's the ESC key,. older HP computers used F10 key, and is prompted !)
  1. Connect the line power pack 19vdc 65watts or more to the wall power and Laptop connector.
  2. Remove  big battery that snaps into the bottom,  (if a tiny cracker thin notebook , with no battery main classic that just pops out,  one must read the service manual to do that act, "back comes off")
  3. Turn on the PC laptop, if you see text now then know that   the screen is not dead.  (see OS dead) {operating system}
  4. As you power on  hammer the ESC key at power on actions BIOS screens always pop (if the RTC CMOS coin cell battery is dead, BIOS can be dead)
  5. The BIOS  screens then give you text menu's  and options,  if that works, the screen is NOT DEAD,  but the OS may be dead.)
  6. if screen is still dead,  no HP logo shows or the words, "hit ESC key to enter setup" show up do the CCFL dead?  flash light trick next.
  7. To further prove the screen is dead connect a Desktop screen to the LT read VGA jack. (if HDMI use that to a TV) if this works ok, the local screen is dead (Fn+F4 is the hot key to activate the VGA jack)
  8. More examples of black screens (but screen is ok) are covered here.  black-screens of death 
In most cases,  if the screen never shows, text the screen is dead, bad screen or bad CCFL tube /inverter card.
Some new cracker thin, LT need this part to do the external tests. (lacking VGA/DVI)
This is my Laptop block diagram, the screen shown, at the large red arrow. This is LED backlighted screen and very reliable. The video card is seen here.

If the BIOS works and screens work then the screen is ok, but the PC side is dead, the OS side is dead, it will not boot.
Black screens of death.

End laptops.

"The flash light trick" Desktop or LapTop  (just 1 minutes work and bingo ?)

I take my flash light, and point it to my black dead screen.  (I am hammering the ESC key, "flashlight pointed to screen, power on and quickly hammer the ESC key" BAM BIOS POPS. (or F10 key on 10 year or older HP)
or if you know windows is running, you heard it make music, ? or just  know it by the sounds of the HDD etc,,, then just use the flashlight, now. BAM, yah, got  DATA?
If I  see data here, this is BIOS but can be Any windows screen of any kind ,or even a login screens or BLUE SCREENS 's. See, it's not dead is it; only the Back lamp is DEAD, (the CCFL must be replaced)
This is the first CCFL test. (mostly before year 2010 PCs)  If testing any Desktop there you will see the monitors log show up , and then PC BIOS showup here.
      Wow the back lamp is dead !

When I see the above, (I have repaired many )  but I can  get this Desktop  monitor from walmart for near $50 and use it.  or a whole PC for  way  less !!
One can use a Desktop screen on your laptop in  pinch or at any time. (mobility here will cost you way more,  labor and parts.
All HP LT have service book telling you the steps to remove this screen and put back the new one. (some LT have no separate inverter cards but deep planted the display."hidden")

But if portable is necessary, then you must fix it, and below that is what I am doing.... (some just use and VGA external monitor for , cheap cash used and use  that forever)

Keep in mind that the LCD connector deep inside might just fall off, for sure if monkeys played here before and did not put back the tape to secure it like new.

A PC boots and runs its OS in a process. BOOTING LOGIC 101:
Power on,  the Desktop monitor shows its logo all by its self  then the PC side boots.
You see messages on all PCs at boot, the text (other than NO SIGNAL) is from BIOS.
BIOS boots the machine in all cases, LT or DT.
BIOS talks to you, if BIOS is dead there will be no booting to anything else.   (BIOS never self erases (99.99% of all bad BIOS his HUMAN damage)
The BIOS sends text  below and if a laptop shows HP LOGO top right seen here, clear as day, that means BIOS is alive , the screen is ok, and the PC may fail to boot next. Boot to the windows logon screen.
This also means the CPU can process data, the RAM bank must not be missing or BIOS will be dead. Test memory banks 1 stick at a time in BANK 0 slot.
If this message is gone, the CCLF is dead or main LT battery shorted out (remove it) or there is a gross loss of power inside the PC. (thus the Flash light test to see if it is only a bad CCFL)
BIOS/screen  is clearly NOT DEAD ! btw that is BIOS talking to you !

The  HP logo above is BIOS generated on any LT,  even with the Hard disk drive missing or dead the text message above works.
To prove that, hit ESC at power on, see it is  not dead, you now get the HP BIOS menu system.  ( some PC by HP shows hit F10 or other keys)
The PC  BIOS can now do P.O.S.T error codes, via beeping or flashing Caps lock LED lamp.
This is far as I go on boot logic, this page I am doing here only covers dead screens and the above is not dead at all.

One more inverter fix, in a very different way below is a LED CONVERSION kit.  I've done a few. $100 fix to.... so... you must either be rich or crazy like me, ..
If all you need is an inverter ?, ebay has them used for about $5 (the tubes can be changed but is not easy, youtube that, to get the level of difficulty , step one is remove the screen.)
Here I am upgrading the CCLF screen to LED Back lamp screen, see the new Inverter dead center. (the screen was cracked and wrecked,  so I upgraded it)
The new , Genius level inverter here fits vast numbers of laptops. The extra connectors do  that.  (this is a Toshiba.)

end coversions.

Solder balls from H3LL:  by Nvidia, chip errors.
CIRCA 2008.  (newer PCs just ignore this)
lead free year, horrors.  (this horror is a mix of bad design and allowing the PC to overheat) (blame is in Nvidia camp , I guess)
This began with USA government laws, banning lead (Pb) kicked IN and caused the below results,  just like all mandates, things go bad (for someone, even millions of folks) 
Best action by you is scrap the PC, buy a newer PC.  (get a  desktop this time? ) or HP 8540w. Buy something that has  GPU card inside. (buy a desktop and a dirt cheap chrome book for travel)
This is a surface mount device,  and uses solder pad/balls,  I bet moms oven can not fix this failure !!!
 (I will demonstrate this using a better LT PC, one that has  totally modular , VIDEO CARD)
(this can cause a range of wild and crazy symptoms, and for sure  intermittently and screen acts crazy, as the  LT base is flexed.)
One more clue is the rear VGA  jack fails (using an external monitor), too when the PC is flexed,  (GPU failures do that)
 The 2008 era, LT may have the GPU solder ball failures from H3LL problems cause by the USA Federal mandate of lead free solder, laws.{think Monkey wrench effect}  (yup, it was born dead, complex thermodynamic reasons, low melting point solder) 
The are 3 reasons for this failure, 1: not putting a steel stiffener frame on the MOBO, 2: a bad  brand of new Lead free solder, (too low melting point) and at the same time, if lap top vents are blocked you can overheat the GPU easy,
Some solder melts at 136f (58C)  not saying this was used, only saying they used the wrong solder,, my bench solder sn63 melts at 183C (361f)
Some users placed their laptop on a blanket , it overheats and the solder here was damaged. (like a perfect storm of bad, but is now cured by the makers)
Also some PC overheated fast and easy. (some LT makers just hid the problem by running fans full time or 2 times faster all the time) (preventing many dead displays)
If sitting on a beach at 120F in the shade, and the LT goes dead, are you surprised? Most will overheat like this and worse if the sun lands on the LT.
One LT, if you press hard on the J key  , the  GPU bad solder balls, connect and  the screen wakes up, or goes dead. (yup).
Or,  remove the key board and press on top of the GPU chip now,  does the screen wake up now? BINGO? bad solder joints you HAVE! (kiss off one MOBO) but not mine below, it's an Elitebook.

My GPU unplugs. (GPU means Graphic Processor Unit, or chip)  Yes the chip runs hot, and has heat sinks, as do those fast RAM chips seen here.
The large chip below is it, and will overheat if the heat sink is missing or fell off.  (loose or the thermal compound is cracked)
The other chips are dedicated RAM for the GPU. The RAM chips on mine have heat sink pads. 1mm thick (I reverse engineered them, 2 ways, the pad them self and the gap measured.)As seen here.
Do not let hacks fix your PC or they many make it worse not using proven heat sink compounds or pads, the correct thickness. 
Warning 2,  I see laptops failing for GPU too hot, I then check the heat sink and find that the compound is now hard as dried clue and brittle,  and is now CRACKED from natural LAPTOP flexing.  What ever they used there for compound is NO GOOD. I use this.

My Graphics screen driver CARD: below:  (HP Elitebook 8540w)  My LT has 3 card options. (speed)
I love only Laptops that have a card that unplugs, (you do get what you pay for here!!). (not only that, but I CAN UPGRADE IT for gaming, or for CAD/CAM or for Video editing extreme. Yes, PCs are versatile.)
Some cards sell for $20 used.  (what a deal and not one has Solderball problems !)
The solder balls (SMD) are under this big green chip below, called the GPU, graphics processor.  (the conditions of assembly here are complex, Re-flow methods in an OVEN)
It runs real hot, the better and faster the chip the more heat it expels (like gaming does),  The balls can not be home repaired,  doing a ball remelt in moms oven is 100% failure event, I can replace my card but most cheap laptop owners the MOBO is bad now.  $150 used part. or more.
This example below never ever fails for solder balls , but the photos of my GPU are very clear, and you can see no human can go under there, and fix bad balls. (only a re-flow oven might but at home , is impossi)
HP 8540w, is the best LT HP ever made, I hoard them.!
Some simple tests for the Screen LCD is simple and gently twist it in an un-natural way, (out of square) if the lines change the LCD is bad, (sure in all cases, re-seat its cable)
The base of any laptop the case can be twisted in the same way to see if the GPU chip is bad,  see if lines change.
One more test:
The test to see if this chip is bad is press on the Keyboard "J" key the chip is below that key, on your LT the pressure point would be different, read the service book to learn the GPU actual location.
I can also remove my keyboard and then press the GPU chip to my hearts content, to see if the screen acts up.  (2008 is the year of horror for said chips) Call the solderballs from hell PC's

A Bad LCD in most cases. In most cases the LCD array screen is bad. (non 2008 screens)

Google (duckduckgo) what Lines look like,  in all cases bad GPU, bad  LCD SCREEN or bad/loose internal cable to the LDC.

NOW LEGACY HARDWARE.... (cry a river? song played now?) History and Evolution matters, it lets you know what you have before you start testing things.

CRT and CCFL are now legacy hardware.  : "Cold Cathode Florescent Lamps" CCFL for short !
Over 10 years old falls into that pit of legacy hardware,  and all the bad things with it, (lack of support, lack of parts tops that list)
Monitor or Laptop SCREEN BACK LAMP  failures (CCFL) are #1 failure rate items up to 2010 year when LED came on the market.
CCFL fail in these modes: Dead, Dim, Yellow, blinking (strobing) or random works or not! (in as low as 20,000 hours use)
Acid test: The yellow screen below is obviously bad.
Run Notepad (start button type notepad) if that shows yellow for white, the CCFL tubes  1 to 4 are bad.  See the next photo?, there they are explosed by me.   Right click image 2 to zoom it.
mm lenght * diameter ,  274= 10.8" inches

HP Made many CCLF Laptops, from year 1997 (first LCDs) LCD beat CRT's sales in 2010    Then the LED back lamped LCD screen  was BORN !
CRT were introduced by IBM in 1981 (MDA, EGA, VGA , DVI followed, even HDMI now) all this is in the WIKI to read.
Some CCFL tubes are imposible to change inside glued LCD panel sandwich.
Others you damage the LCD or it frame attempting the act, but some are easy to change. (why not look first and find the true there)
To change them tubes, it  can be easy or near impossible , some are so deep in side that damage happens no matter your skills.  see and easy one first here.
CCFL all fail in these ways :turn yellow Dim out, then blink, then die dead.  Some might wake up for a day, or 1 hour, but will not last much longer if you keep doing that, those are the death thows of any CCFL tube.
They sell tubes here and upgade kits.

Here is fix,  if you like to upgrade CCFL to LED, . (easy or hard or impossible are all possible here)

The plot can thicken easy, too easy if you have U tubes inside, good luck finding the correct size. ( 3 U-tubes become 6 long straight tubes)
If it has U Tubes, shaped,  we can  (glue in  2 straight tubes wired in series can work, nothing to lose trying)  Finding those is near impossible. (YMMV)
No 2 monitors or Laptops are the same, each is custom design and complex disassembly.  (as you can see, I know how in above link)

The CCFL the cold cathode Florescent lamp tube.  ( these can go dim in 2 years of continuous usage (no sleep/hibernate modes used) 20,000 hours is the typical life spand (yes ,short)
Lamp life is defined as the brightness decreased to 50% of the original.
 LED's can go for 20 + years full tilt.  Most CCFL lamps used here, ended in the year 2010.
Some tubes need 500v to 1000volts and 40khz Sine wave, and by level of dimmer setting.
The Phosphors inside age and go dim fast from these effects below:  As they dim they love to turn YELLOW.

Due to degradation of phosphor from Hg consumption . (Hg = Mercury gas, very TOXIC too, do not break them and sniff them, okay?)

Ion UV bombardment from the discharge column may be the attributing actor in depreciation of the Phosphor (age effects many)

Ion bombardment of the phosphor over a period of time can cause the inner layer surface of a phosphor coating to become non-luminescent (more aging effects)

Ion bombardment over time can cause some phosphors to have a greater tendency to absorb mercury. (as you can see, now, CCFL's SUCK for these reasons.)

See inverter fails next,  after some history below and HP secrets by model.

HISTORY and specific HP only models of PC that love to fail for bad CCFL:

THEN CAME WHAT? "LED back lamps came later" 
The bright white LED was introduced in September 2003 by Cree, but it took many years  for PC makers to latch on too this device. (slow my guess, is was  due to LED costs in 2003 ,or near)$2 a pop is super expensive.
CCFL's ended about 2010 in Displays.(LED takeover) Just as CRTs died down fast, and for sure helped with the push over.
These tube lamps can fail, or go dim or go yellow or flicker or the inverter power supply for it is bad.
Do not forget that many old CCFL laptops you can buy a LED conversion  upgrade for many, as seen in ebay...(For HP621 / G60 / DV6 / CQ60, and more )
This HP only ,  table is not complete: (one trick is to pretend to buy a CCFL for you screen, if can't? then it has none.) Trick 2 is to read the service manual, see words toxic for Hg Mercury , bingo CCLF.
Old Laptops. CCFL Most PCs (and monitors) changed to LED in 2010. (large screens then small)
Most old  Compaq CQ series , CQ40,50 ,60 61,62 all made before year 2010.
Compaq 6500 to  8700's  , and 2000, 2500
G3000 series
NC4200 to, NC8400 
NW8400 to NW9000 series
NX6000 up to nx9100 series.
TC1000 and L2000
Compaq 500-550  hp 500 series , 1800 series
DV1000 up to  DV9000 series.
ZX5000 series  , ZD8000
V1000, V1100
ZE2000  to 5000
all old DV4,5,6,7,8, series. (as in dv4-1234us) on up.
and lots more..G60 ,G61, G70
Very old Elitebooks had CCFL 6530s,6930s,8510,8530, 8730.
 (never 8540s) (oddly my 8540p/w  are both LED)
I think Elitebook codes, are  xx30 and xx10 means CCLF inside.. on Elitebooks.?(a theory)

Monitors only: with CCFL , and internal HV power board. (seen below)
L15xx series,  L1503 is common (the first 2 numbers are size wide)
L17xx series
vs17, vs19. VS15 bit VS19 is LED.
and more. 
but a warning; I saw some old names like L- Series,a monitor with LED the last year it was made and  a new power board inside to match.
The introduction of LED started with large screens at and above 20" , then moved to more narrow screens.(cheaper screens last).
Here is another cool list ripped from the heart of Fleabay (random sellers)

530 550 6700 6710b 6710s 6715b 6715s 6720s 6730b 6730s 6735b 6735s 8500 8510p 8510w

EliteBook 8530p/w

G3000 G3100 G5000 G50-100 G50-200 G6000 G7000 nc8230 nc8400 nc8420 nc8430 nw8240 nw8430 nw8440 nx7000 nx7010 nx7200 nx7300 nx7400 nx8220 nx8410 nx8420 nx9100 nx9105 nx9110


 dv4000  dv4100  dv4200  dv4300  dv4400  dv5000  dv5100  dv5-1000  dv5-1100  dv5-1200  dv5-1300  dv5200  dv5t  dv5z  dv6000  dv6100  dv6200  dv6300  dv6400  dv6500  dv6600  dv6700  dv6800  dv6900  dx6500  dx6600  zt3000  zt3100  zt3200  zt3300  zt3400  zv5000  zv5000t  zv5000z  zv5100  zv5200  zv5300  zv5400  zv6000  zv6100  zv6200  zv6300  zx5000  zx5100  zx5200  zx5300


 C300  C500  C700  CQ50-100  F500  F700  R3000  R3100  R3200  R3300  R3400  R4000  R4100  V4000  V4100  V4200  V4300  V4400  V5000  V5100  V5200  V5300  V6000  V6100  V6200  V6300  V6400  V6500  V6600  V6700  V6800  X1000  X1100  X1200  X1300  X1400

end CCFL, avoid all PCs with CCFL.

INVERTERS: (first Exernal, monitors then Laptops last)
Below I will show some old HP External desktop monitors.  (first is the PSU the power supply inverter unit (PCB) "Printed Circuit Board"
This is a  HP L1711  Monitor PSU that uses 2 High voltage jacks at left, to run the CCFL tubes. Cold Cathode Florescent Lamp tube.
 The silk screened words there clearly show HV Caution. Giving this lil' secret away. Almost all HP external monitor PSU's that have CCLF use the same look alike  HV CCFL jacks.(hint 2)
Note how the jacks are isolated (lots of PCB space) so that HV does not ever land on that jack to the right and blow itself to kingdom come. (logic chips HATE High voltage HITS, read up on ESD?)
They (the Engineers) know  this PCB will be buried in dust too and dust conduits electrons.; Shock hazards here too,  500volts up.... wider the screen , the more volts.

INVERTER cards do fail, x10  less often. (than lamps )  Lamps are 99% failure rate and Inverters are 1% .(or pure fate /luck)
SEEN before year 2010.
HP sometimes calls it CCFT (T = tube) Cold Cathode Florescent Lamp tube.
Many CCLF screens have an out-rigger Inverter board that converts,  5vdc? power  to 500vdc. for the CCLF tube to Ionize and glow.  
The tubes love to fail or go dim, yellow or flicker, or go dead, and so can the below fail. Buy them used on ebay. (new ones are HP would be unlikely this old)
Some Inverters are buried deep in the screen where no man can go or worse can't buy them at all , only a new screens cures CCLF screens of this type class.
See this  old DV2000 inverter its really a DC to DC converter, low volts to high voltage (and can shock you playing with it)
A powersupply inverter card, CCFL.(CCFT)

PC External monitors , if these words turn yellow the TUBES are BAD.
On Screen Display:
OSD is a menu
that the Monitor Brain inside presents to you, on demand, Push the Menu button, below Mr. OSD . as seen below. The PC brain (CPU) does not do this at all.
This is a new OSD screen ( monitors brain does this not PC) (key features to try are, brightness, and factory reset and OSD lockout)
Relic , legacy monitors look like this below:. Even CRT monitors had this. (the most old CRT never did !)
circa 2000? old. On the oldest monitors say year 2000, there can be SLEEP timer here, TURN IT OFF NOW , keep it OFF.

L1703, try factory settings yet, brightness, color temperature, ? You can even custom set the RGB color levels as you like.
If you view a white screen , say in MS NOTEPAD,  and it's yellow looking not pure white, the CCFL is bad. and colors will be muddy.
To get this OSD screen push the front panel monitor button called Menu (or select).
The OSD lock feature can be turned off by holding the menu button for 10 seconds to 30s. max.
The OSD can  have  a test pattern page, so if the test pattern looks wrong, you know for  a fact the display is failing or set wrong.(read your users guide yet?)
This HP test pattern inside the HP OSD menu's is really a nice HP feature, so you can see if the monitor is ok and can be used to tune the colors as YOU see fit.
Learn that monitors made from 2000 to 2010 year, had OSD changes made (radical) for VESA and EnergyStar rules/laws. 
The classic example of that is around 2004 they dropped the internal sleep timer (I hate). (always turn off said timer  first)
For sure the video cables can fail. (try another cable yet?)

RANDOM acts of death,  Impact damage.

Surely the above is clear what's up,  what is wrong, no words really need be said of you ever saw how fragile LCD really is, one smack is all it takes. 
Kiss off a $100 bill. too. plus LABOR charges  (laptop or desktop, same damage possible)
more Captain Obvious damage, even with no cracks the LCD inside can be a wreck.

CRT  Cathode Ray TUBE Monitors,  ditch them, is best idea.

If you hit this below CRT  hard enough it IMPLODES. (below) Do not play inside as the 20,000 volts will not make your day. Not at all.
If you have one 2 choices?

  • Pissing on a running lawn mower spark plug !
  • or messing inside here,  pick pissing. 
Read it carefully:  (learn  that nobody with smarts/savvy,  volunteers to take the 20kv hit grounded and through the chest. NOBODY.!  and few live to tell about it.
 If you put that energy trough your heart,  who knows what happens. As low as 10uA (micro amps) current can stop a heart and high voltage can puncture the skin and that is super dangerous.
That nerve on the heart? Don't play games with that body part, ever.!
If you do take  hit here, the pain is at grade 1000 out of 1000,  you will never forget it. (It can throw you across the room and get hurt real bad doing that too or hit others or cause huge cascaded damages...)

 The CRT is a large HV capacitor. (that holds charges for a very long time or seems near forever.) The glass is near a perfect insulator is why.!  Glass is !
CRT's;   the CRT needs a trip to the  Recycle center  fast.
A working CRT is amazing today.
Most of the CRT's  are dead  today or the RED GUN is way low, (I can be raised higher in the Menu's of most OSD.)  If the CRT fails , most parts are not found today... (good luck sourcing  relic legacy parts like this)
20" Monitor. below.

Brain references here, (not to be silly at all)  are to give Alan Turing his due credits.  Refr:1,   Refr2,   Refr3.  ( any brain that does math or makes decisions or can work algorithms is a brain)
Alans work with ULTRA is no less than totally AMAZING. (a Hero in his time!)
State machines, or logic sequencers, too.

version 3.  7-29-2017   (no PC diagnose here this is only MONITOR or LapTop (notebook) screen failures)